Day 21 - Larche to St Dalmas le Selvage - Indirect Observation

Snow on the climb to the Pas de la Cavale

Up and away by 8.00. There has been heavy rain overnight which has fallen as snow above 2000 m - not exactly helpful on a 3 col day. Five minutes into the hike and the rain comes down, so I stop to layer up. Thirty minutes later it stops, so I can layer down again and the hiking becomes more pleasant even if it is still chilly. A walk along a lovely flat valley is followed by a climb up past the Lac du Lauzanier to the first col - the Pas de la Cavale (2671 m). The snow isn't too deep but it still makes the climb a bit tricky.

Scientists are used to the idea of indirect observation. For example, a new planet may be detected as a wobble of a star rather than directly seeing it. And the Med, still not visible, is revealed by a long, low and unimpressive line of clouds (caused by its moist air) in the distance. Another little sign I'm getting near the end of the hike.

Observation of the Med via the clouds on the right

The rest of the hike is more straight-forward. The bad weather has passed and the mistral is blowing, but it is sunny and clear. Before the 3rd col I find an open cafe and stop for some coffee and clafoutis (like a fruit flan) and this puts be in a good mood for the final climb of the day (but reduces my cash reserves to 4 euros). 

I arrive at the chambre d'hote and spend an agreeable evening with two Swiss guests and the two hosts. The Swiss are German speakers; neither speak French but one speaks English and, as the hosts only speak French, I end up doing quite a bit of translating.