Wednesday, June 29, 2022

HRP Day 4 - Aldudes to Roncesvalles

The first three days of the hike were in rolling green hills from village to village, with lots of accommodation and eating options in the morning and evening. That pattern will continue today, but then the hike changes a bit; there will be fewer villages and I need to be more self-sufficient, which means a heavier pack. There's a post office in Aldudes, and I've sent a food parcel there. The post office is only open between 10 am and noon, so I can't hang around too long in the morning.

After a very nice breakfast, I head to the post office and collect my food parcel. I also sent my umbrella and an 'old' map home. I pick up a couple of snacks at the local store and talk to some fellow HRPers. The weather is great for hiking - dry and clear but not too hot - and my pack is still fairly light as I head out for the day.

Arriving at the start of the long high-level ridge

The first 3 hours of hiking were very nice - climbing up those steep little hills you see everywhere in the Basque country. Much of the day involved walking along a high level ridge (at around 800 m altitude) with great views in every direction. Around half distance, though, you find yourself walking on a road. There's no traffic, the views are just as good but the road is harder on the feet and a bit less interesting. 

La Redoute de Lindux (1220 meters) with its Napoleonic fortifications

Apart from a little excursion to climb a summit on the border (La Redoute de Lindux, 1220 m) you stay on the road until you arrive at the Col de Roncevaux and by then my feet were quite uncomfortable; strange, I've never had any foot problems when hiking before.

Corridor outside my room in La Posada

A short descent from the col took me to my hotel in Roncesvalles, La Posada. It's an old hotel (built at the beginning of the 17th century) and it's got a lot of atmosphere. My room is big, with a comfy bed and a private bathroom, but it's also quite spartan. Tomorrow's forecast is poor and I decided to spend two nights here (bivvying in the rain isn't much fun, especially with minimalist gear) before resuming my hike. 

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